Linen Vs. Cotton: Revealing Key Differences of Precious Plant-Based Fibers

Whether you're a hobbyist, a fashion enthusiast, or simply interested in learning more about these textiles, you have come to the right place. In this article, we have compiled the essentials on their features, benefits, production processes, environmental impact, and applications. Get ready to discover all the differences between linen and cotton to help you decide which fiber is perfect for your needs.

Cotton, also known as ‘white gold’, can be traced back to several thousand years ago. The first evidence of cotton cultivation was found in Peru, Mexico, Pakistan, Sudan, and the river Nile valley. Archaeological excavations indicate that ancient civilizations used cotton as a luxury product at first. Later, as it spread to other parts of the world and as its production processes improved, it was used for various purposes, from clothing to biofuel. Today, cotton is one of the most used natural fibers in the apparel industry because it’s comfortable, affordable, and versatile. 

Linen is a type of durable, natural thread derived from the cellulose fibers of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum), which is amongst the oldest cultivated plants in human history. It is not to be confused with ‘linens’, which is a phrase typically used in the US to denote household textiles. Flax plant can be processed to form a thread, linen cord, or twine, which can then be used to make fabrics, clothing, draperies, and so forth. Different types of linen fabrics include damask, plain-woven linen, loosely-woven linen, sheeting linen, etc.

Linen production is considered highly complex and labor-intensive. When flax plants are of perfect ripeness, they are harvested and soaked in water (‘retting’) so that the fibers separate from the stalk. They are then crushed and extracted from the stalks and dried. After combing, straightening, and cleaning, the fibers are smoothed out and prepared for spinning. Finally, a thread is winded on a spool or into a ball. These are the exact threads that are woven to create linen fabrics we know today.

Cotton fiber is made from cotton plant (of Gossypium genus), and it is one of the most popular materials used in textile manufacturing. Its fiber is staple and quite fine. In another words, short fibers are twisted together and spun into yarns. Their fineness allows for weaving into high thread count fabrics to achieve a soft and silky texture. Known for its multipurpose applications, cotton fiber is used to make anything from sturdy denim jeans to medical supplies. Although it is very popular in fashion industry, it is not the most durable fiber. It is susceptible to piling and undergoes a relatively fast wear and tear deterioration. There are many varieties on the market today: organic, Egyptian cotton, brushed cotton, poplin, Pima, muslin, and so on. Each type has its own benefits, but organic cotton distinguishes itself from other types by eco friendliness and reduced ecological impact.

Compared to linen, cultivation of cotton plant requires large amounts of water and pesticides, since it is very vulnerable to pests. Unless organically grown, cotton cultivation relies heavily on harmful chemicals and irrigation. After the cotton plant is ripe, the bolls that encase the fluffy fiber are harvested. Following the harvesting, the fibers are separated, cleaned, and aligned and spun into thread or twine, which is later woven (or knitted) into fabric.

Let’s take a closer look at the differences between linen and cotton.

Compared to new linen, new cotton is noticeably softer. That being said, over time, with each wash and wear, rough flax fibers get significantly softer. Eventually, they will become comfortable and very soft. While cotton is gentle to touch right from beginning, it does not last as long as linen, as its fibers are more delicate and more prone to pilling. Therefore, if you want a long-lasting product that reduces waste, opt for linen or 100% pure organic cotton. 

When comparing the looks of these two fibers, you will notice that flax fiber looks crisp and stiff, but it is also more visually appealing due to its slightly rougher texture. Cotton is smooth, uniform, and more polished. Both materials have a laid-back appearance and are mainly used for casual wear or household applications.

Both materials are great to keep you warm in the winter. Although linen is usually associated with summer and heat, there is no need to be concerned. Flax fiber is hollow with natural thermoregulating and insulating attributes to keep you cool in heat, and warm in winter. A good rule of thumb is to layer linen apparel in colder weather. Cotton is also a great insulator, as it does not conduct heat. However, when it is wet, it has poor insulating properties.

When we talk about texture, cotton fiber is smoother and softer. Flax fiber is loosely woven and has a rougher texture, which softens with each wash. Linen feels sturdier and is often thicker than cotton, although it does not feel bulky.

Both flax and cotton fiber have exceptional breathability properties. This feature allows air to circulate and body perspirations to escape. Generally, linen has slightly better breathability due to long, hollow fibers that let air flow so you can stay cool in warm weather. This is why it is preferred choice for bedding. By helping you regulate body temperature, you can have a better good night’s sleep. How breathable cotton is depends on the weave of fabric. For instance, thicker weave (denim) is less breathable than a basic T-shirt.

Although they feel stiffer and are porous, flax fibers are thicker and up to three times stronger than cotton, making them more durable. What this means is that thread count does not determine the quality and strength of linen fabrics. Linen is such a strong and long-lasting material that some would argue it is even the strongest plant-based fiber in the world after hemp. A testament to its durability is certainly the fact that some paper currencies contain a blend of linen fiber. Cotton fibers are shorter and weaker, and have a considerably shorter life span.

Both are hypoallergenic; however, when we talk about textile, cotton of tighter weave is more likely to trap particles, thus, more likely to cause allergies. Flax fiber, on the other hand, prevents bacteria growth, which is why it’s commonly used to make napkins or towels.

Although both fibers are very absorbent, there is a significant difference between the two. Linen becomes softer with every wash, while cotton fiber slowly disintegrates when exposed to moisture. Flax fiber can absorb up to 20% of its weight in water and dries faster than cotton, making it ideal for towels.

100% pure cotton is remarkably effective in absorbing moisture; however, it does not wick that moisture away. Rather, it traps it and remains damp until it dries. Linen, on the contrary, draws water (or sweat) away from the skin and dries quickly.

The final price of the fiber is based on several factors, like availability, production processes, or how the plant is cultivated. Cotton is more affordable since it grows in more geographical areas, is easier to harvest, and is simpler to manufacture. Making linen requires considerable work and has limitations to where it can be grown. For these reasons, the price of linen fiber is higher.